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ROD BUILDER TIPS For PEARLabel or EPSON Label Printers

Free Fonts, Graphics, Save Tape, Special Features,

Elimination of Tape Edges Tips & More...


A. Fonts: Free Font Download location -

Thousands of script fonts can be found. Download fonts you want and add it to your Windows/Font File. Not too many, it will slow down your computer’s restart.


B. Graphics: Use, or to find images. Type in your search and add: “Image”, “Black & White” (ex: Sailfish Black & White image). Try to find a single color, stay away from multi colors if possible. Select the one you want, right click and choose "save picture as", make sure you save the image as a .bmp, .jpg or .tiff file. In the printer software, start a new file, click outside the box so you can import the file. Select that file and place it on the page. If the image is too big, it will not work, try to find small files. Some files will come in “clean”, others may need to be cleaned up. To clean-up a file, here is what you need to do. Double click the image and then choose "Adjust Image" It first goes to Dither. if you don’t like the image you see, you can choose "Approximation". Slide the bar across to see your best quality (between 0 – 244), let go when your happy, then say OK.


C. Save Tape: Prior to printing, save tape by doing the following:

  1.  Look on the left side for “Margins”. Change it from 0.12 to 0.04, you will have to do this each time, unless you create a file as a template.
  2.  Position your job flush to the left side and to the bottom by the red frame.

    At this point, you should save about 1/6” on each label you print.

D. Special Features you may like:

  1. You can reverse print your text label (on clear), giving you a block of ribbon print but the wording is clear. You can put a color thread, paint, vinyl or something where the clear area is going to be placed on the rod.
  2. Multi Line Printing: You can make each line a different font, or size and even control the spacing between each line to get more on a label.
  3. Make a 1” label from a ½” tape. On the left side on the software, look for Print-Paste Printing (up to 8 pages). Using a ½” tape & 2 pages, the screen will show a 1” label (2 – ½” pages). Print and you will get the top 1/2 then it prints the bottom 1/2. You can splice them together for a 1” label.


E. Elimination of Tape Edges by Pat Barnard: 

After much trial and error this is the method I use to virtually eliminate the visible edges on a decal used for Custom Fishing Rods using the PEARLabel 270 & 360 or EPSON LW-PX400 & 800 printers. If you need additional information, just let me know.

1.  Print decal. Using scissors, trim as close as possible to the

letters/object. Very sharp scissors are a must to ensure a clean precise cut. The goal is to remove as much of the material surrounding the decal as possible without compromising the letters/object. Do not score/cut the decal backing with the supplied tool; leave the backing on, this will be removed in step #5.

2.  Prior to decal placement on blank, place a thin coat of finish where decal will be placed, let cure completely. I have used Flexcoat and ProKote with good results.

3.  Obtain clear "mild tack" transfer tape (free from LRT Group) and place on TOP of trimmed decal. Press decal into transfer tape to ensure decal adheres to tape completely; leave paper backing on for now.

4.  After finish has cured and just prior to decal placement, warm the finish slightly with a heat gun or blow dryer, use caution, only a few seconds is adequate, do not "cook" the finish.

5. Now, remove decal paper backing. A slight bend in the transfer tape will cause backing to pull from decal. Use tweezers for backing removal, do not touch decal adhesive. Carefully place decal in desired location and roll decal/transfer tape to embed decal with warm finish. I use a Brayer roller. CAUTION: Be precise in decal placement and work slowly. Once decal contacts finish, it is nearly impossible to remove and reposition. in the event that decal has to be removed due to placement error, removal of decal adhesive from finish is difficult. Goof Off used gently on a lint free coffee filter has worked best for removal. Alcohol was ineffective but can be used as a final wipe once adhesive was removed.

6. Gently remove transfer tape. A gentle wipe of the decal edges with rubbing alcohol is all that is needed to remove any adhesive that has been pressed out during the rolling step, use a link free coffee filter for this.

7. Coat the decal with your favorite finish.


F. Eliminated trapped air, lines, and or ghosting by Norberto Molina Jr.

To ensure you get a clear background and eliminate trapped air, lines, and/or ghosting between your decal and your rod, this is what I’ve done that has worked for me without fail... *


Step 1: First and foremost, if laying your decal straight on the blank, clean the area where the decal is to be applied with either alcohol or denatured alcohol... *


Step 2: Assure that when applying your decal that you use transfer tape or scotch tape to transfer your decal to your desired spot on the rod...avoid at all costs to touch the adhesive part of the decal as it will leave your fingerprints between the decal and the rod... you will not be able to remove it and will have to remake your decal... *


Step 3: After applying your decal, wrap over it with thread with your rod wrapper under high tension! What this does is push out any air trapped between your decal and your rod... it assures full contact to the blank...Let it sit for 10-15 minutes and unwrap the thread from the decal and you should have a perfectly laid out decal with no air bubbles, ghosting or lines visible in your background!


If applying your decal over thread as a background, lay a flat and level coat of epoxy over your thread work... your coat of epoxy should be level and flat... this is key to ensure a super clean and a blemish free outcome! Let your epoxy dry overnight and should be ready to apply your decal the following day!!! Repeat steps 2 & 3 for optimum results!!! Good Luck and tight lines!!!


G. Updating your Software: You can either contact us by calling or by email. We will send you the current software zipped up or on line at: NOTE: Look for the “1.3” version only. Do not download version 2.0 as it looks very different from the current 1.3 software.


If you have any questions, please, call or email us.